The Pink City, as it is famously known, completes the ‘golden triangle’ of Rajasthan, with Agra and Delhi as the two other points. For my next trip to India, I’m planning to explore the rest of Rajasthan such as Jodpur, Udaipur, and Jaisalmer. But for now let me tell you about my experience of solo travelling around the most famous hotspots in North India!

I arrived at Jaipur airport at golden hour… I quickly ordered an Uber to my b&b and experienced a terrifying cab journey weaving through traffic. Do not be fooled by the sparsely populated photos of Jaipur’s architectural landscape! I felt that my experience of traffic around the city was just as stressful as getting around New Delhi. With this in mind, choose your timing wisely for sightseeing as the rush hour here is real.

Where to stay?

I booked a b&b last minute called Haveli Kalwara, situated within Indira Bazar, as I had planned to stay at Dev Mahal, a boutique heritage hotel, but they cancelled on me due to a system error. (I would recommend calling them instead of booking online).

I found the rooftop bar and restaurant at Haveli Kalwara quite picturesque and convenient, and the staff were especially nice to me as I was on my own. It’s not luxury, and the rooms could do with a good dust… but otherwise I felt safe.

Later on I checked into Moustache Jaipur, which was perfect for young solo travellers as they have group tours, and I wish I had gone there first. I made some friends there who I arranged to meet up with in Agra.

What to see?

The first auto rickshaw I took in Jaipur was to the Royal cemetery, Gaitore Ki Chhatriyan, a beautiful carved stone and marble mausoleum for the Royal family. I think the entry fee was 50 rupees. It was very quiet, with hardly many visitors. There were a few Instagram influencers posing, and you could definitely see the appeal.

On the way to Amer Fort is Amer Stepwell, just a tuk tuk out of town. You can capture great photos looking down on the stepwell from above (unfortunately you get whistled at by the stepwell police if you attempt to climb down…) Look closely and you might see a few large turtles sunbathing in the well.

The iconic image of Jaipur usually slapped on the front of guide books is the Pink Palace, aka the Hawa Mahal. Yes it is as pink as it is looks in the photos and changes colour with the light throughout the day, transforming from peach in the day to orange in the afternoon. The main façade that you see is actually the back of the palace, and the front entrance can be found to the side of the bazaar.

Once inside, you’ll find the multi-coloured stained glass windows, carved jali screens, and peep holes for the women whom the palace was built for, to look out on the ceremonies outside without the public seeing them… (basically the opposite to darśan).

Where to eat & drink?

If you’re looking for some home comforts after travelling for a month having curry for breakfast, lunch and dinner, then do pay a visit to Bar Palladio, within the hotel… I attempted to go in the evening and it was full and lively, so we went the following day at lunch time and the turquoise painted walls shone in the midday sunlight. I had a plate of spaghetti prawns (don’t judge, I have already justified my reasons above), which was delicious. I also had a cocktail which was far too strong. Yes, it looks fancy, but no it’s not London prices.

I really enjoyed testing out some street food such as pani puri (or golgappa), deep-fried thin shells in a round shape which have different contents, such as chickpeas, or potato. I didn’t have any issues with my tummy despite it being water-based, and I also asked for non-spicy. Good idea to find one that looks popular. The trick to eating them is in one go… otherwise the contents spills over you. My friend Afreen introduced me to them in Mumbai, and she said that getting pani puri’s is a cute date activity, as you feed them to each other.

A typical Rajasthani breakfast food is a cream bun with your masala chai for breakfast.

What to wear?

Prior to arriving in Jaipur, I had spent 10 days in the south of India in the Tamil Nadu region, with balmy temperatures of 35 degrees. While I was in Rajasthan, it was early February, and was pleasant during the day but it got very cold in the evenings. I would recommend bringing a warm cashmere jumper for the evening and a lightweight puffer jacket. But if you run out of clothes, here are some places to go shopping…

Shopping…

FabIndia - a chain that has wonderful printed kurtas/kurtis and western style clothes. You could very easily buy your whole spring/summer wardrobe here.

Anouki - another chain, with block printed clothes. I feel like there is a bit less choice but it is more curated. Nice coffee shop within the department.

Ridhi Sidhi Textiles - a wholesale stockist for quilted everything from blankets, jackets, pyjama sets, toiletry bags, hand bags, napkins, and they also sell material which you can order to be custom made into something.

Bazaars - plenty near the City Palace and around that area, SO many stalls selling quilted jackets, bangles, sandals and general tourist tat! I bought my quilted jacket there, and haggled it down from 2500 rupees to 1500 rupees, equivalent of around £14. (I was told later by my Indian friends that is apparently quite steep. Got back to London to discover same jackets in Portobello market for £45, so I didn’t feel too ripped off.)